When we started Brother it was all about food. We wanted to find out how the stuff on our dinner plates got there, wanted to think about food as something other than a commodity. But after our first issue, about Brandon Chonko’s Grassroots Farms, we realized it’s hard to just talk about food. You always end up talking about people, too.
Charleston, S.C.’s Clammer Dave was perfect for the second issue of Brother for a couple reasons. I first heard about him a few years back when another chef told me about the crazy tool Dave uses to sculpt his oysters (you saw it on the cover). I was really intrigued—and then I tasted his stuff. After you’ve eaten his clams, you don’t want to eat anything else. They’re just immaculate and plump and delicious. Basically perfect.
Turns out, Dave’s a real character. This summer, the Brother crew got a chance to look behind the scenes at his HQ, then sat down to enjoy the spoils of his labor along with some Charleston pals who love his stuff as much as we do.
Dave’s work doesn’t involve the same blood and guts as, say, poultry farming, but it’s no walk in the park. Each and every one of his clams and oysters represents an insane amount of hard work, patience and persistence. Perfection’s not easy, but it might just be worth it. We hope you enjoy.